So I sat it out and went and hired the best board I could find (pretty average) and waited in hope that the swell would die down for the second day.
Luckily it did and I was greeted with perfect 3-5 ft waves. I was up at 7am to try and beat the crowds out there (The waves go bad at about 10:30 anyway with onshore winds throughout the day). This surf turned out to be a bit of a disaster though as on my second wave, one of my fins got sucked off and was lost for all eternity. I paced the beach for 40 minutes hoping it would wash up, but to no avail. I went back to our room feeling a bit dejected, but decided to get another pair from the surf hire place and get back out there. By the time I headed back, the crowd at Mexican Pipe was pretty big so I opted for a lesser peak a few hundred metres down the beach. While not perfect by any means, I had it to myself and got some decent waves.
Hopefully over the next few days i will regain some surf fitness and be able to say ive surfed the best waves of my life by the time I leave here.
Last picture is of me!! Thanks to Maddie for having the patience to sit on the beach and take a few shots. All other pics are from the first day.
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