Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Puerto Escondido Surfing Update #1

Today is our second day in Puerto Escondido. Home of the world famous Mexican Pipeline. Yesterday the waves were epic. Perfect 4-8ft barreling beach breaks. However, I decided it was best to stay on the beach and take photos as my fitness level is pathetically low and I didnt think that surfing the biggest waves of my life while terribly unfit would be particularly wise. That and the fact there was no clear passage out to the back and I dont really like duckdiving at the best of times.

So I sat it out and went and hired the best board I could find (pretty average) and waited in hope that the swell would die down for the second day.

Luckily it did and I was greeted with perfect 3-5 ft waves. I was up at 7am to try and beat the crowds out there (The waves go bad at about 10:30 anyway with onshore winds throughout the day). This surf turned out to be a bit of a disaster though as on my second wave, one of my fins got sucked off and was lost for all eternity. I paced the beach for 40 minutes hoping it would wash up, but to no avail. I went back to our room feeling a bit dejected, but decided to get another pair from the surf hire place and get back out there. By the time I headed back, the crowd at Mexican Pipe was pretty big so I opted for a lesser peak a few hundred metres down the beach. While not perfect by any means, I had it to myself and got some decent waves.

Hopefully over the next few days i will regain some surf fitness and be able to say ive surfed the best waves of my life by the time I leave here.

Last picture is of me!! Thanks to Maddie for having the patience to sit on the beach and take a few shots. All other pics are from the first day.





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