Be prepared. This entry is a bit of a rant and not all nice.
We've been in China 10 days now and it's been good. We've seen some cool things and ate some nice food. The one thing that really stands out here though... and is making it a little hard to put our time here into the 'great' category is the people.
We were warned to expect certain levels of behaviour from the people here, but not to such a full on degree. Especially not in the cities. I guess coming from the land of sweet and polite (Japan) has made it even more of a shock, but I struggle to believe that there is anywhere else on earth quite like this.
Let me start with the staring.
We receive the stare from pretty much every second person on the (busy) streets. It's not a "oh hey, it's a white person" kind of glance. It's a long hard stare. What makes it worse is that it's impossible to look into their eyes and know what they're thinking either. Do they think you're attractive? Are they curious? Are they sizing you up to rob you? It oten feels like the latter. You can't make them stop either. Staring back has no effect, it's like they're in some kind of trance. I'm often tempted to stick my fingers in my eyes and up my nose and make a super ugly face... save for the fact that I still don't know what to think of it all. If you're just walking by, they'll stare until you've managed to get by them. If you're unlucky enough to be standing still, it goes like this. First, they'll stare at your face for a good 5 to 10 seconds. Then they'll look you up and down.... slowly... inspecting your attire and what you're carrying with you. Then they'll return to looking at your face for as long as time permits or until something better comes along. Obviously there are different degrees of staring and that example is the worst of it. The staring itself doesn't bother me so much. The thing that gets to me is WHY?? This isn't a remote town in Western China where they get one whitey a year. This is central Beijing and Shanghai. We see another white person for every block we walk here. They must too! They can't not be used to having people with different skin colours in their city. I would be incredibly ashamed if this sort of thing occured in Melbourne.
Driving.
In some countries, the driving is endearingly chaotic. Like there are no rules and people just make them up as they go along. China feels the opposite. There are obviously road rules in place and they are very blatantly disobeyed at each and every intersection (often in front of police) due to an incredible level of impatience. It's not endearing, it's irritating.... and dangerous! Red lights mean nothing. Whatever can do the most damage has right of way. Obviously this leaves pedestrians in a bit of a spot. The honk of a horn is vehicular for "Open Sesame!" when there is an obstacle made of human beings in the way. If you don't move.... well I don't know. I move. I don't really want to know what happens if you don't.
Queuing.
We were told that people in China had only recently learnt the importance of a queue. This was obvious..... and I don't think everyone has had the lesson yet either. It's an odd feeling being the first person lined up to get onto a train and then somehow becoming the last person to go through the doors.
Spitting.
People here spit. All the time. You can't walk 20m without hearing that sound. It doesn't bother me at all really. Again, it's just a question of why? it's so puzling. Do Chinese people have different glands to the rest of the human population? Ones that produce phlegm at a rate 100 times faster than anyone else? Is it the pollution? I can't remember the last time I felt the need to spit anything from my mouth that wasn't toothpaste. Let alone the need to do it constantly!
There are other things which I could mention, but they're not particularly unique to China, so there isn't really much point.
You might be thinking "You're in China!! Just deal with it!" and I think we are dealing with it. We're still having a good time, despite these things. It only tends to get to you at the end of the day, when you're getting a little tired of walking and have no time for someone on a Vespa pushing their way through a crowd of people. When you get back from a day of activity and think "thank god we're back at the hostel". I don't think that's the ideal way to finish a day.
I feel the need to mention that we have come across some friendly and polite people here, at the hostels in particular, but unfortunately these sort of people seem to be the minority.
As for the other aspects of China, it's been pretty OK so far. Hiking along the Great Wall was superb! Beijing was cold and boring. Xi'An was lively and interesting. Shanghai is a fairly decent big city. The food has also been great!
I'm looking forward to our final Chinese destination, Guilin, as I feel like it might be a little different... being smaller and in a completely different kind of setting. But deep down, I think i'm thinking "BRING ON MEXICO!!!"
Blake